Shukura

Forest, a pool and the sea in Tsikhisdziri

Shukura is in Tsikhisdziri, on a slope above the Black Sea, between Batumi and Kobuleti. Here the subtropical forest comes down to the water, and among the palms and bamboo grow figs and bananas. The name is the Georgian word for lighthouse.

The history of the place goes back to the nineteenth century. Country houses of generals once stood on this slope, surrounded by gardens. In Soviet times the grounds became a sanatorium, and today its surviving buildings have been given a new life. The old walls were not hidden away: a restaurant, a bar and a pool were set inside them, and long shared tables were put out among the trees.

A path leads from the terrace down to the sea. It goes through thick greenery, past a waterfall and a banana grove, and comes out at the shore. There is no feeling of a resort here in the usual sense. It is rather a large garden in which a restaurant turns up by chance among the ruins.

The cooking at Shukura is as light and summery as its surroundings. Fish is done over coals, vegetables stay fresh and plain, local produce and familiar Georgian tastes are served without unnecessary weight. There are lemonades, cold drinks and everything that works particularly well on a hot day by the sea.

The restaurant opened in 2021. It was created by Adjara Group, known in Tbilisi for projects such as Fabrika. But where Fabrika works with the fabric of the city, in Tsikhisdziri the main space is nature itself: the forest, the old walls and the sea.

People come to Shukura for lunch and then stay until the evening. First you can go down to the water, then come back to the table, order another drink and discover that the sun is already setting. Time here really does run a little differently.